Posts from — April 2009

I am not a practicing GREEN designer. I understand the importance etc, but it isn’t my niche. Because today’s Earth Day, I thought I do my part and post about someone you should know in the Green movement- O Eco Textiles.
I first came across O Eco Textiles and founders Leigh Anne Van Dusen and her partner Patty Grossman through my friends at TODL. I’ve had the good luck to spend some time with Leigh Anne and hear her awesome presentation about textiles and what is really green and sustainable. Frankly, I am a little pessimistic about all the Green conversations and marketing strategies out there. It’s interesting how linen and cotton have all of a sudden become “organic”; yet if you examine the textile process by its very nature it is not green.
But O Eco is… O Ecotextiles is probably the greenest producer of home textiles (primarily used for window coverings, upholstery and top-of-bed). In addition to the yarns, it’s about the process. O Ecotextiles is an “organic fabric”, not just an “organic fibre fabric.” Think of turning organic apples into applesauce: if the manufacturer mixes the organic apples with Red Dye #2, preservatives, emulsifiers, stabalizers then the final product is far from organic. The same is true of fabrics.
Leigh Anne and Patty researched the chemicals used in the textile process , finding there are 2000 chemicals used in the manufacturing process of making textiles from yarns. They have ELIMINATED USE of ALL THESE CHEMICALS in their manufacturing process (the “toxic yuck” as Patty says). Their resulting fabrics are acknowledged as beautiful and lush, and they meet / exceed all fabrics use standards.

Just the Facts, Ma’am
BuildingGreen.com named them as one of their Top 10 Products for 2008 - very big deal. These are selected by the editors of Environmental Building News and GreenSpec®, the leading national directory of green building products. Hefty criteria.
CEO Patty Grossman heads up the Textiles division for the Sustainable Furnishings Council (SFC)
Their attention to the environmental aspects of production doesn’t mean that they turn a blind eye to the finished product- using Belgian linen spun into yarn by a Master of Linen and long fiber hemp field retted by craftsmen who still maintain the old traditions.
Not to mention, they have entered into a partnership with So Far So Near collaborating on some fabulous printed textiles that are presented as a collection that works together to delight the eye and the hand - soft, beautifully colored and finished.

Leigh Anne and Patty say it best; some of their favorite points are
- Much of the textile industry has left the US and gone to developing countries.
- In India alone, textile effluent averages around 425,000,000 gallons per day. In a year, that would fill 240,000 Olympic sized swimming pools — water filled with detergents, degreasers, surfactants, bleaches, optical brighteners, size, desizers, dyes and many other types of chemicals.
- People don’t realize that the phthalates and ‘Bisphenol A’ and toxic chemicals that have just been outlawed in California in kids toys, well, the vast majority of textile printing dyes are full of that stuff. Phthalates is a class of chemicals that has a pretty unsavory toxicity. People who are very careful about not bringing toxic toys into their house can be putting kids to sleep in rooms full of this stuff because the fabrics are full of it.
- Doctors who treat patients for sick building syndrome increased by 40% in the decade of the 1990s. The chemical soup in our homes over the last 50+ years is causing or contributing to a plethora of issues — increased autism, one type of leukemia, male birth defects, childhood brain cancer, ADHD, asthma. And today 40% of all children have allergies of some kind
Bottom line - O Eco Textiles are beautiful and healthy - a hard -to -find combination.

Share/Bookmark

Calling all fashionistas! The Fashion Show premieres on Bravo on Thursday, May 7, 2025 at 10 p.m. ET/PT. Fifteen professional designers will compete in this fashion creative competition series for a chance to have their designs sold in the retail market and win a $125,000 prize.

If you’re a Project Runway watcher, you know that it has been over a year since we have seen Tim Gunn, Nina and Michael Kors dice up the designers on Bravo’s Project Runway. If you aren’t a fanatic, here’s the reason why. Bravo and parent NBC got into a nasty legal battle when Harvey Weinstein, producer of the show sold it to the highest bidder. NBC sued for breach of contract and Weinstein alleged lack of promotion. The suit has been settled so Bravo is getting set to launch its PR wannabee-Fashion Show- with hosts Issac (Yea!) Mizrahi and Kelly Rowland. So if you need a fashion fix tune in.
To make it even more interesting, join the Design Confidential in Fafarazzi’s Fashion Show Fantasy League. (The trend team played as we religiously watched PR and then dished about the wacky designers and the clothes they created post show.).

By the way- Lifetime was the highest bidder and Season 6 will start airing this summer. Oh can’t wait that long? Check out the finalists’ creations from February’s Bryant Park shows - no names were revealed!
Here’s an Inside Scoop- Along with the students from AIU-Atlanta and colleague Susan Schultz , I will be presenting the Runway to Window fashion show, May 15, 2025 - Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA

UPDATE- As I was clicking publish this came across across my email screen. Project Runway is casting for Season 7

NEW YORK, NY (April 21, 2025) - Lifetime Television sews up the summer with the highly anticipated Emmy®-nominated and Peabody® Award-winning hit series Project Runway, premiering on Thursday, August 20, at 10PM ET/PT. Produced by The Weinstein Company and Bunim-Murray Productions, host Heidi Klum, mentor Tim Gunn and judges Michael Kors (leading fashion designer) and Nina Garcia (Fashion Director of Marie Claire Magazine), will guide sixteen new contestants as they show off their design skills to see who makes the cut for Fashion Week. Filmed in Los Angeles and New York, Project Runway also features influential guest judges from the worlds of fashion, music, film and television.

Models of the Runway, an exciting new companion series, will air at 11:00PM ET/PT, beginning August 20, immediately following Project Runway. Each 30-minute episode will give fans a behind-the-scenes look at the reality competition - from the models’ perspective. Viewers can experience the drama, anxiety, joys, tears and frustrations as the models themselves face elimination each week and compete for a cash prize and photo spread in Marie Claire magazine.
AND…
Do you have what it takes to be the next hot fashion designer? Always dreamed of showing your work on the runways of New York City’s Fashion Week? This is your opportunity! PROJECT RUNWAY SEASON 7 IS CASTING NOW!!!

Share/Bookmark

Are you a closet crafter? Were you the one who passed on typing class for a front row sewing machine in Home Ec? I did and lately I am feeling the urge to get back on the craft wagon. ( believe me crafting and craft fairs are not what they used to be) So it’s with great interest that I am following Faythe Levine’s journey with Handmade Nation. I first heard about Faythe and her amazing documentary in 2007, at about the same time as I was trendspotting the growing craft movement and its affect on design. We labeled it Renegade Craft- the transformations, adaptations and the resurrection of old-fashioned processes and materials into designs that are fresh, edgy and new. Its focus is on the intersection between craft, art and design; the on-going need for the hand-made in a techno-based society, rendered in a completely forward-looking fashion. Now 2 years later it has become a full blown trend and the documentary has been a huge hit screening
What is Handmade Nation?
In 2006, first-time filmmaker Faythe Levine, founder of Art vs. Craft, Milwaukee’s independent craft fair and the co-owner and curator of Paper Boat Boutique & Gallery. traveled 19,000 miles to document what has emerged as a marriage between historical technique, punk culture, and the D.I.Y. ethos. Handmade Nation gives viewers an inside glimpse into the fascinating world of the indie craft community through interviews and footage of crafters in their natural habitats - work studios and craft fairs. Featured crafters include Jenny Hart, Nikki McClure, Knitta’ and Deb Dormody, just to name a few. Levine lets the individual crafters shine as they talk openly about being part of an ever-growing DIY community. While each crafters’ individual work is highlighted in the interviews, it’s their expressed dedication to the larger indie craft movement that comes off as nothing less than amazing. The indie craft community, as highlighted in Handmade Nation is one of the only economic rays of light in this troubled economy - and this film is a testament to that success. Follow Faythe on her blog, at Handmade Nation’s official website. or buy the book. If you’re new to the craft movement, you gotta check it even its to see what kind of mad skills crafters like Austin Craft Mafia, Sew Bitchy, or Naughty Secretary Club have.

Handmade Nation’s next screenings:

April 23rd: West Bend, WI- I’ll be there!

Museum of Wisconsin Art 5 – 8 pm
West Bend, Wisconsin
5 pm, food & beer tasting
Film begins at 6:00 pm followed by panel discussion with Faythe Levine and guests

Tickets only available at door $5 beginning at 4:45pm, limited seating.

Share/Bookmark

Here’s Part 2 of the Designing For Profits and ASID Survey results.
Looking for the Right Niche?
Designers still seem focused on selling products vs. services only. They said they will be selling more of the following product categories in a search to find the most profitable and productive niche:
Window treatments 59%
Furniture 52%
Lighting 50%
Respondents went on to say that the categories that provided the most profit margins were:
Window treatments 75%
Furniture 68%
Art and accessories 58%
Lastly, even if it’s all hype and marketing, Green will be more important than we think. The survey indicated that 40% of designer’s clients find green design to be important to them.
Survival Strategy- Alter your business model. Find the right mix of more profitable product lines, services and profitable clients. Are there any categories above you are not presently selling? Take this downtime to examine your business plan; see where you spend most of your time; decide if the clients you cater to are the ones you really want and determine where you make your most profit. You might be surprised at the answers. Whether it’s concentrating on high end, focusing on what you do best and outsourcing the rest or moving into new markets and niches-doing something is better than doing nothing.
Changing Consumer
Designers agree that the consumer is behaving differently today. We all realize that clients expect more and different things today than in the past. Almost half (47%) of the designers surveyed said that biggest change in expectations was the client’s desire NOT to exceed project pricing. Equally important (47%) was the need for cost transparency. The challenge here is that most designers find it hard to have frank discussions with their clients about budget, pricing and value- perceived or otherwise. Clients do not always understand the different value equations, so we must educate them. Hidden in the Designing For Profits results was the consumer’s strong need for speed, in both the presentation and design process. This forces shorter time frames that can be gut wrenching in an industry that traditionally works in long lead times and at their own pace.
Survival Strategy- Focus on Customer service. Yes, I know, my clients are becoming more demanding too. Taking the time to work in their budget, listen to their needs and simplify the process can differentiate you from the pack.
Designers Look into the Future
Without a doubt, increasing revenue from your top 5 clients is essential. According to 66% of the designers, over 50% of their business comes from fewer than 5 clients. (The old 80/20 rule.)
Also interesting was fact that based on their business goals for the next 3-5 years, the majority of designers see the next 12 months as a time to expand cautiously while others sit tight (46%). But 17% see it as a time to retrench, cut back and survive.
Survival Strategy- Sitting in your studio and wringing you hands waiting for the phone to ring won’t work.

• Increase your visibility- 25% of ASID’s respondents said they are increasing their direct marketing efforts.
• Market, Market, Market - not advertising but one-on-one business development. One in five designers said they’ll take on more consulting work to build relationships and 10% have started a website or joined a referral service.
• Be selective. There isn’t much point in marketing to people who aren’t buying. Recraft your marketing messages to appeal to niche markets and make sure your brand message is strong and clear. Clients need to have a good understanding of who you are, what is unique about you, what you can do for them and what value you bring to the table.

Think about what you did to become successful and pursue similar strategies again. Be positive, challenge yourself and remember that there is always opportunity in bad news.

How are you bearing up in 2009?

Share/Bookmark

I thought I would share some information with you about what designers earn, and how they earn it from recent surveys done by Designing for Profits and ASID. We all have had the gut wrenching experience of reevaluating our financial positions in the past several months. I bet none of us entered design to pour over profit and loss statements and mind numbing Excel sheets, but we do have to face the music. Michael Behrens, Director of Research for ASID, says ” We are looking at the worst design market in 20 years.” So let’s see what our peers and competition have to say about it and what some of the strategies are to survive.

Revenues

Both surveys were conducted before the implosion in the 4^th qtr. ASID surveyed 1600+ members between September 23 and October 14, 2008. Designing for Profits conducted their survey in the late summer of 2008. Both concluded the same thing, close to half of their respondents said revenues would be down in 2008 and in a third of the cases by as much as 50%. NO KIDDING- we all know that. What does that mean? One thing is that project sizes have decreased followed by declining product sales. The good news is that remodeling and upkeep is still viable with kitchens and baths the most requested. Start brushing up on the K and B skills.

Survival Strategy- Switch gears and start making connections in places where you can reach these clients. Short of hanging out in Home Depot or Lowe’s, start by dusting off the old client list. Ever thought of hooking up with a home inspection service or offering After Care like James Swan. ( see my post, The Business of Design)

Investigate the healthcare, hospitality and government markets- work is steadier and though it has its issues, it can be profitable. Hotels might not be doing major building but they do do periodic refreshes and I wouldn’t sneeze at a 100 bedspreads& blackout drapery project.

Pricing

The traditional pricing model of a charging a small percentage for your time and a larger percentage for your product is no longer valid. It is getting harder to maintain product margins and differentiate yourself from all the ”design marketing” noise. Clients can always find it elsewhere; our secret sources are no longer secret; plus if you don’t return their call ASAP they quickly move on.

51% of the designers surveyed by Designing For Profits said less than ½ of their total sales comes from products. Designers said if they had to choose only one pricing model; it would be hourly billing over flat fees and retail product sales.

72% require a retainer upfront before starting a job – the front end loaded concept- and 34% of the most successful designers hold the retainer until the end of the job while invoicing throughout.

Survival Strategy- Look to service-centric; not product-centric models. By focusing on billing for your expertise and time, the model shifts to become more front end loaded. In other words, you get paid up front rather than taking a 50% deposit; using it to pay for the work and then having to wait to get paid for your time and your profit at the end of the job.

Given the economic uncertainty, 94% designers also said they will maintain or increase prices in next 12 months.

Survival Strategy- Raising your prices should NOT be related to the economic conditions, but to your unique product/service bundles and brand. Lloyd Princeton says it best, “The economy may be down, but your services are still worth what they were worth before the decline. Don’t drop prices. Instead consider repackaging your services and charging more to attract a different clientele.”

According to Designing For Profit’s survey, pressure on profit margins during the next year will come from two sources:

1. Direct to consumer and internet shopping (25%)

2. US and world economy will put downward pressure on their billing rates (41%)

The survey results showed nearly half of the designers surveyed had average markups on products of 20-40%. This was followed by another 15% of designers who operate on markups of 1-20%. How do they survive? This brings up an interesting point. Designers regularly confuse markups and margins and this misunderstanding can dramatically affect their business. Looks like we all need a crash course in retail math.

Tune in tomorrow when we talk abot the changing consumer, niches and take a look at the future.

Got an opinion? comment? Feel free to weigh in.

Share/Bookmark